*BUILD LOG* 'CDJ 2000'-style DIY Traktor controller

**DjNecro** · 03-24-2011, 04:56 PM

My guess would be friction.. I'd think twice about a permanent solution such as super glue, unless you are able to remove the panel without removing the caps.

**Archies'bald** · 03-24-2011, 05:01 PM

Here's some buttons I've found. Don't know if they will be any use to you.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Momentary-Push...item2eb3b4359b

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Push-Button-Sw...item2a07d8a9c5

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Momentary-roun...item4aa9b13f65

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-off-RAFI-Re...item2a0db0d192 Edit .... Oops, just noticed these ones are normally closed, I don't know if you could use them and invert them in Traktor:S

Links 3 and 4 look the best bet.

**DjNecro** · 03-24-2011, 05:32 PM

They all seem to have a fairly long travel... That's been my problem as well... I have access to probably hundreds of buttons through a local supplier, but they don't stock more than 3 or 4 different types. I have to order from a picture, and while the look of a button is important, i could care less how sexy it is if it doesn't feel right... I need to push a button before i buy it

I have a bunch of different types and have only found one that has the short travel i want, its just way too tall

**nem0nic** · 03-24-2011, 07:20 PM

Look for tact switches instead. There are plenty of good sealed momentary tact switches out there with really short throws. Look for a long life switch (80K-100K cycles) and find a switch cap you like and you're in business. If you get a switch cap that has a lip at the bottom, you can use the faceplate to keep from ever loosing it.

**derschaich** · 03-25-2011, 10:08 AM

Originally Posted by lexion610

3.0mm Alu. is pretty rigid, but if you are going to paint/lacquer the surface i would recommend 2/2.5mm mild steel.

Had to do this stuff for a DT project if you were wondering

+1 on the steel, waaaay more strudy!

**fullenglishpint** · 03-25-2011, 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by derschaich

+1 on the steel, waaaay more strudy!

way more fokken heavy as well though...

**MiL0** · 03-25-2011, 11:17 AM

Originally Posted by Archies'bald

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Momentary-roun...item4aa9b13f65

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-off-RAFI-Re...item2a0db0d192 Edit .... Oops, just noticed these ones are normally closed, I don't know if you could use them and invert them in Traktor:S

Links 3 and 4 look the best bet.

nice one - those 2 look just the job

not sure if the 4th button will be a problem; probably not a great idea having a midi CC being outputted the whole time (unless de-pressed).. perhaps there's a way to reverse it in the Arduino code?

**DjNecro** · 03-25-2011, 12:12 PM

There is a way to invert it in code... but trust me, it becomes a nightmare trying to keep track of everything if some of your buttons output a 1 for being pushed and other output a 0 for being pushed (it would also require different wiring for the NC buttons) Try to get them all either NO or NC... it's easier

**MuzicFreq** · 03-26-2011, 03:48 AM

Originally Posted by MiL0

like this? if I move the eq, gain and filter so that they're all lined up like a traditional mixer then it doesn't actually give you any more room for your fingers (slightly less tbh):

btw - only 3 cues per deck as I'm also going to be making 2 x midifighter clones after I've finished this!

Ill take 2 after roadtest

**MiL0** · 03-26-2011, 05:26 AM

anyone had any experience with the Livid keypads?

http://shop.lividinstruments.com/bui...-pads-4x4.html

edit: actually, these look better suited (cheaper too): http://proto-pic.co.uk/products/Butt...akout-PCB.html

bit pricey but meh, i really don't want to cut any corners on this project... might as well get the best I can... would hate to finish this and regret certain design choices at the end.

btw - it seems Livid use 1.6mm thick aluminium for their panels... much thinner than I was planning: http://blog.lividinstruments.com/for...ic.php?id=1336