*BUILD LOG* 'CDJ 2000'-style DIY Traktor controller

**keeb** · 03-23-2011, 04:12 PM

I'd add LED feedback if you aren't going to already, and only 3 cues per deck would be a bit meh for my workflow. Also having the filter knobs nested in the EQs like that would drive me nuts and possibly would cause my fingers to bump against the EQ knobs. Pretty cool and innovative though.

**MiL0** · 03-23-2011, 05:56 PM

like this? if I move the eq, gain and filter so that they're all lined up like a traditional mixer then it doesn't actually give you any more room for your fingers (slightly less tbh):

btw - only 3 cues per deck as I'm also going to be making 2 x midifighter clones after I've finished this!

**fullenglishpint** · 03-23-2011, 06:31 PM

never let it be said the MiLO is unambitious. Love the project man.

Thought about a DB4 style staggered offset EQ section to give you space to work? Also, this is just a mapping issue unless you're printing labels for the faceplate, but are you sure you want an ABCD deck order rather than an S4 style CABD order so A and B are adjacent?

**MiL0** · 03-23-2011, 06:34 PM

since I'm not using the Traktor main screen it doesn't actually matter which decks I use. I could order them ABCD and just use decks A and D for the main track playback for example. My 8" Traktor Clone display doesn't care about the original layout of the Traktor GUI since it's rearranging the GUI to suit my controllers needs, not the other way around!

Nice one re the DB4; I'll definitely consider that

**Archies'bald** · 03-23-2011, 06:45 PM

What would be wrong with using the top encoders for both Gain and Filter (with the shift button)? How often do you use the filter? Are you looking to use something else with these controls?

Also, you may find that cutting so much out of your panel will weaken 2.5mm metal (I'm assuming you're using aluminium) Speak to whoever you're using for the metalworking process and tell them that it's important that you can travel with this thing. Also get countersunk flat headed screws to secure anything on the top surface of the mixer section.

I recognise the smaller buttons you have there, and you may have to watch the amount of travel on them before they activate if you are mounting them below the front plate. The measurements look a bit tricky.

Please don't take any of this as criticism, I'm only trying to point out anything I can see before you run in to trouble. I'm 100% behind you on this project.

**MiL0** · 03-24-2011, 06:14 AM

That's a pretty good solution actually - think I'll give that a go... doubt I'd be using the gains and the filters at the same time

What thickness would you recommend? 3.0mm thick aluminium adds quite a bit to the costs. The base of the controller is almost certainly going to be MDF wood. This means I'll be able to put some supports inside the case to keep the panel rigid. What's the typical panel thickness of Pioneer and A&H mixers? And yeah, Front Panel Designer allows you to design holes that are countersunk for screws. I'm going to get a DJTT VCI style plastic laminated faceplated printed anyway, so it'll cover up all the screws.

Yeah, I wired up the buttons to an Arduino last week and found the same thing myself. And I know from owning the XP10's that stiff buttons are a real pain (as I'm sure you'll agree!). I don't think these buttons are particularly stiff but you do need to press them quite a distance before they activate. Of course, I'll make sure that they're sticking far enough out of the panel but I wonder if these particular buttons are the best choice? You got any other recommendations for similar sized buttons?

And nah, I definitely don't take any of what you've said as criticism! That's the whole reason for this thread; need to get as much feedback as possible before I commit myself to a particular design. Please keep the comments coming - I've still got a long way to go and a LOT to learn!

**derschaich** · 03-24-2011, 12:53 PM

there are a lot of big holes on the left (arcade buttons, smaller buttons) of you faceplate. this makes the materail very weak, which might cause you a problem (especially with the tightly fit mini-buttons) when hammer down massive juggle-routines.

better get more space between those to increase the stability of you faceplate!

**MiL0** · 03-24-2011, 01:28 PM

hmm I don't really have a choice tbh - I guess I'll need to increase the thickness of the aluminium... what thickness would you recommend?

also, don't forget the arcade buttons have a slight 'lip' to them - the holes that they sit in are a bit smaller and less close together... the mockup picture above is slightly misleading.

**lexion610** · 03-24-2011, 02:04 PM

3.0mm Alu. is pretty rigid, but if you are going to paint/lacquer the surface i would recommend 2/2.5mm mild steel.

Had to do this stuff for a DT project if you were wondering

**MiL0** · 03-24-2011, 04:46 PM

yeah - that's what I figured... 3.0mm aluminium is pretty thick; it'd have to take quite a bashing for it to break I'd have thought? As I said, I'm planning on reinforcing the controller by adding loads of supports under the panel - I think it should be fine.

I'm more concerned about what Archies said about my button choice... thinking of going down the microswitch route instead... can anyone figure out how these microswitch caps don't fall out of the panel? how are they mounted to the microswitch - do you have to superglue them on or something?!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50pcs-white-7-...6#ht_500wt_922