*BUILD LOG* 'CDJ 2000'-style DIY Traktor controller

**MiL0** · 02-21-2011, 04:15 AM

Originally Posted by ToS

Want software to map HID input devices(external keyboards) to custom midi events?

At the moment the HID device (numpad keyboard) is just outputting standard qwerty keyboard data. But, the software I've designed also supports midi output. It's written in Autohotkey. I'll upload the source and exe once it's finished.

Originally Posted by Coldfuzion

Seems like a MIDI-Fighter, but you're just re-mapping everything for your ease of usage

. I like the way the tracks show up though on the separate screen, it'll be easy to quickly check your BPM n stuff.

hmm, well I guess you could call a numpad a bit 'like a MIDI-Fighter' but that's before it's been hacked up! (I'm only using the numpad circuit board as a HID brain). Think of the LCD screen as one small part of this project - a bit like the LCD screens on NI's Machine.

**MiL0** · 02-21-2011, 02:07 PM

some more bits arrived today.... just waiting for the encoders and leds...

**MiL0** · 02-21-2011, 03:21 PM

aaaaand another video! this one explains the concept (or should I say "Koncept") behind the FX section and how the encoders control what's directly below/above them on the screen. Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvrU1USThRc

**Quenepas** · 02-21-2011, 04:06 PM

This is amazing. Please remain focused and finish this project!!

**michaeldunne109** · 02-23-2011, 07:46 PM

Alot of work done. But alot of work ahead. Good Luck

keep us posted please. This looks amazing.

**MiL0** · 03-10-2011, 04:15 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSFLhPudEBc

**Archies'bald** · 03-10-2011, 04:51 PM

A couple of quick tips for your pots. It's possible to break the annoying little tabs on the pots by using a pair of pliers. Just give the tab a little twist at the base and it should snap off flush. Don't worry about the pots turning too much in the case, most of them come with a spring washer which compresses once tightened and stops the pot from turning.

When soldering the pots it's possible to put the cables in to the little holes above the posts and solder by filling in the hole. Just make sure to cut any lengths of wire which go through the back and may touch any part of the case (or any other conductive part).

I'm really impressed with how you're going about this, keep up the good work and you'll get your reward.

**MiL0** · 03-10-2011, 05:14 PM

ah nice one Archie - I just tried snipping the little tab off with a pair of leatherman pliers and it came off really easily! I was thinking that it didn't matter if I had to make the little holes in the perspex as I'm planning to put a sheet of adhesive printed/cut plastic on top (with all the controls printed in text) so it would cover up any screw heads, scratches and/or excessive holes. Not having to make the holes will certainly be a lot easier when it comes to the real thing! (although I'm considering getting the face cut professionally).

yeah I thought that was possible but thanks for confirming - think it'll definitely be easier than soldering wires to pin headers... I'm thinking about using the breadboard jumper cables I've got to solder into the potentiometer holes - you think that'd work?

and thanks for the encouragement - it might take me the rest of this year but I'm not going to give up! (also, I've spend a fair old amount of cash now... be stupid to stop!)

**DjSweekUh** · 03-12-2011, 01:22 PM

Originally Posted by Archies'bald

When soldering the pots it's possible to put the cables in to the little holes above the posts and solder by filling in the hole. Just make sure to cut any lengths of wire which go through the back and may touch any part of the case (or any other conductive part).

I would avoid doing this as it can damage the pots. its easier to bend the posts into a circle and solder that